Harry Potter: The Costume Drama
It’s been two years since the last blockbusting Harry Potter movie hit cinema screens across the world, and now he’s back and set to smash even more box office records in the fifth instalment Harry Potter And The Order Of The Phoenix.
In ITV1’s Harry Potter: The Costume Drama Ben Shephard goes behind-the-scenes on set of the most elaborate Harry Potter movie so far and delves into the wizards’ wardrobes to find out just how the amazing, intricate costumes come to life on screen.
Producing such a blockbusting movie involves hundreds of decisions behind every frame. Fans watch everything in minute detail, looking for the tiniest fault, so it’s vital the costumes are right to make sure the characters from JK Rowling’s pages live up to their names and bring the best out of the actors.
Costume designer Jany Temime reveals how the outfits go from script to screen for each film, starting with the young wizards and their school uniforms.
“Every year we think, ‘Oh maybe we can use that again’, and every year we look at them [the kids] and go ‘Oh they’ve grown’ and we have to buy new things.
“You always have to buy new things. We buy a lot, especially the kids’ clothes, but we always change things. We change the colour, we dye a lot, we add things.”
The clothes worn by the young magicians may look like they’re from charity shops, but as Rupert Grint explains the clothes he wears as Ron Weasley are far from cheap.
“Some of it’s really, really expensive,” he says. “I’ve got this one thing that’s like a tank top - the sort that Ron gets for Christmas from his mum with an R on it - and that cost about £200!”
Only 30 per cent of the costumes start life on the High Street. The rest are designed and created in-house at Leavesden Studios, and as many as 12 copies of each costume are required for the actors and their stunt doubles.
Once the costumes are made there is a whole department that specialises in wearing them out to make them look lived in rather than brand new. Everything goes through an ageing process; they’re washed with stones, rubbed with sandpaper and even have holes shaved in to them to make them appear worn.
One particularly tricky piece of clothing was the travelling coat worn by Mad Eye Moody which needed a lot of work to make it look just right. Fabric dyes, acrylic paints and latex are all layered on and rubbed down to build up the perfect aged affect.
Jany says: “The Mad Eye Moody jacket was supposed to be a jacket that he wore for 25 years so that was really difficult. That took one month of breaking down layer by layer.
“You have to make sure that every costume is the same, but no hand ever works the same twice, so it’s quite hard to get the same result.”
But the costumes aren’t just customised for aesthetic effect; they’re made to be practical during stunt scenes as well. The clothes the actors wear for the flying scenes are adapted to enhance the illusion of them speeding through the sky on broomsticks. The fabrics are lighter and the clothes are made longer so they flow more on screen.
When Daniel Radcliffe is filming scenes on his broomstick the first thing he has to put on is padded shorts for protection to make it more comfortable, so his jeans have to be specially designed with the padding in.
Daniel says: “I’ve got a pair of trousers that I think belonged to the Chippendales at one point or something - or Bucks Fizz - because they’ve got velcro in and you rip them apart to get the harness on [for flying] then stick them back together.”
For one new character in the film costumes are incredibly important - Professor Dolores Umbridge. Pink is Dolores’ colour and Imelda Staunton who plays her has a wealth of pink costumes. And, as her power increases at Hogwarts, her costumes become a deeper, more vivid pink.
Imelda says: “They were very keen on making her start off a gentle shade of pink and then, as her character becomes more controlling and filled out, and was successfully carrying out her mission at Hogwarts [to become headmistress] the pink gets more intense. Finally she’s extremely pink.”
Another integral part of the fifth film is the rise of the Death Eaters. Their evil costumes gave designers something to really get their teeth into and the Death Eaters’ elaborate masks scared even Lucius Malfoy himself.
Jason Isaacs, who plays Lucius, says: “When we first appear in this film we have these terrifying masks on which are moulded to our face and which, even to me, are very spooky to look at.
“They are warriors in the end - that’s what wizards are - and they are dressed as if going into battle, in a kind of leather suit of armour.”
There were over 40 Death Eater costumes made. Each one was embroidered by hand, and the fabric is broken down depending on the wealth and history of each Death Eater.
In this film Lord Voldemort returns to battle Harry for the prophecy, and his costume is every bit as spectacular as imagined, made of over 50m of silk - the length of half a football pitch.
Ralph Fiennes who plays Voldemort says: “Jany designed four or five versions for me to decide on. She’s fantastic. She knows I’m quite particular about feeling right and it’s important for me to feel right in a costume as an actor.”
Another elaborate costume belongs to Bellatrix Lestrange, a Death Eater played by Helena Bonham-Carter. After 14 years in Askaban Prison her style has evolved into ‘dilapidated chic’.
Helena says: “At the first costume fitting they were going to put me in a sack , but I thought ‘No, she’s got to be sexy, she’s got to have breasts’, and I thought she should be a bit shapely. My idea was that from about 6ft away she looks quite attractive, but then from a foot it all falls apart.”
Bellatrix wears an incredibly tight corset, several of which had to be made as they couldn’t be washed. She also wears fake teeth for a true trout pout look.
“The secret with having fake teeth,” says Helena. “Is that they actually make your lips fuller.”
Each character’s costume is integral to their performance in the film, the intricate details - some of which are never even seen - ensures that JK Rowling’s fantastic stories come to life on the big screen.
This show will air in early July on ITV1

I am a big fan of Harry potter and i just love the costumes. I am studying a national diploma in art and design at college and when i have finished, i am looking to become a costume designer. I have found looking at the harry potter costumes very inspirational aswell as looking at the pirates of the caribbean ones. I think tht they involve a lot more”art” and i would love to persue this as a career. I find Jany Temime an inspiration and i would love to meet her one day, and maybe even be her assistant in a harry potter film.